Maui - Island off the Map
posted 2003-05-27
Latitude North 21:00:49
Longitude West 156:38:16
"They sailed in and anchored. Looking for fresh water and calming seas they weren't expecting to find much except land beneath their feet and a safe haven from the beating of the wind. Gliding into the bay the breakers formed a foamy barrier so the boat's bottom would not kiss the reef unceremoniously. The sailors knew this was a magic spot as the sun strained to touch the horizon and the gold and orange glow in the western sky mixed with the magenta tinged clouds. Even the god they prayed to could not have conjured up such a beautiful sight in the warmth of the early evening."
"The island floated into their conscious being like a dream fulfilled. Through the clouds they could sense the lush open trees. An oasis unknown before to man. They could smell the scent of plumeria and gardenia and they could taste the salt and sand. They felt instantly at ease on this tropical beach. Minds floated like the leaves from the fresh water stream pushed into the bay with the black Koa seeds."
"Walking the shoreline they wander alone in this world and wonder what they are doing here. Too afraid to face up to reality. Too afraid to grow up. Alone, each faces it alone, and feels the strength slip between their fingers, disappearing under their feet as they slip into the water and are lost for all time."
Photo by Erik Aeder
B Boy
B tells me the winds onshore and begins to laugh as he sips his Budweiser. He knows I'm bummed that my spot will be crumbly and uncharacteristic on this swell. I can't see past my nose. B smiles under his glasses and nods up coast. He knows there'll be waves around the rocks and down on the lonely beach with the big volcanic boulders scattered helter skelter like some giants toys.
He's right and we surf for hours in the tropical heat. B carving down the line and pulling sideways along the wall, casual, and smiling under the gathering clouds caught high in the jet stream. He is at ease with the waves and knows the spot like the back of his hand. He surfs deeper than me and gives waves without any remorse.
Photo by Erik Aeder
Wave after wave, day after day, year after year. No need to stop. There will always be another day, another wave. B has it wired. He enjoys his family and friends and treats the land around him with respect.
He laughs at me, as I get too serious.
Under a calming Hawaiian sky and a slackening wind all the colors of the rainbow find their way into the backlit waves. There are hollow rights and lefts in certain spots along the reef line spilling over like little dynamite detonations leaving those cool bubbles to dissipate slowly after the tube has closed. Laughing we share a few more waves and stand under the Keawe trees talking shit to each other, leaning into imaginary barrels as we re-play the session. The wind dries us naturally and I'm at peace standing in the shade as a six wave set antes up outside. Two more guys show up, throw us a shocka and have it to themselves for an hour. The tide is dropping and I fall asleep to the sounds of the wind mixing through the canyon walls.
