Terry Fitzgerald - Photo courtesy of Tom Parrish

Everyone else would be driving down to the bottom, Fitz rode lines nobody else used and ever so stylishly. Fitz primarily hung out with Reno, and also spent considerable time with Gerry and Brewer. Even though Reno and Gerry studied with Brewer, both of them ended up partial to much straighter rockers. Fitz was the same way, using low nose rockers and straight tail rockers, maximum speed lines, whereas Brewer was pushing the limits of how much rocker he could get away with.

Fitz had this move down, fading into the pit on the drop just until he gained enough momentum to transition back to the right all within the top third of the wave. Timing was key as the downward momentum and gigantic arc from the fade had to integrate perfectly creating g force and acceleration, setting up this high line without any loss of speed. Fitz may not have had BK's bottom turn but he was not copying anyone and his sense of trim was among the best.

Jim Neece - Photo courtesy of Tom Parrish

Jim Neece "Wildman", the self-proclaimed biggest wave guy of the time. Just before Alec Cooke, "Ace Cool," came upon the scene to try for the same turf. If I remember correctly Neece also had his sites set on Kaena Point, but I don't think they ever did it.

Wanting to be known definitively as the guy who rides the biggest waves on the north shore is somewhat masochistic. Neece must have come out of a pretty tough mold, he didn't say much but everyone knew that he wanted to be known as the guy who rode the biggest waves. It was the era right after Jose Angel, Peter Cole and friends held such distinction.

The short board revolution improved big wave guns allowing the next generation to take off later and make steeper drops. This mellow shot of Sunset doesn't show it but Neece rode some huge second reef Pipeline days before the cameras and circus atmosphere were around.

Quiver of boards. If they could only talk. Who owns them?

All the boys' boards way back when, three or four each of Rabbit's, Ian's, PT's, Shaun's and MR's Waimea board.

Peter Townend - Photo courtesy of Tom Parrish

PT on his 7'10" pink cruiser, making a lot of water look tame. Typical PT, getting in early, making it look easy, it was for him. Although slim, he was a really good paddler and had tons of desire, which easily outweighed fear. No question of his big wave ability and desire as PT sparkled at monster Waimea several times.

PT always reminded me of Midget Farrelly, a precision approach that never overlooked style. His frequent and beautifully timed soul arches were in contrast to the brash attitude on land and he and Ian kind of came up with the layback cutback, which later evolved into the layback tube ride.

Mike Purpus - Photo courtesy of Tom Parrish

Looking back it must have been difficult to be a surf star from California, so much pomp and hype necessary to don the appropriate stature. It seemed more clown than star but who was I to say. Then as I was dismissing them as posers, it turned out some could actually rip and handle big waves.

Part of the problem was that most of them showed up with sponsored equipment made in California, which usually didn't work quite as well in Hawaiian surf as boards made on the north shore. Mike got in on the good thing with Jack Shipley and I was able to make him an 8'3" swallow tail Bolt. I wasn't overly enthused about doing a swallow tail for such a big board especially since everyone else was getting round pins. Watching him ride it at Sunset, I felt more appreciation for his experience and ability.